Adventure Horse Rides

• Snake Island Cattlemen's Ride

  
  
   
  
  
   
  ARTICLE/ PHOTOS: James Vereker
  Snake Island Cattlemen’s Ride 2010
  An adventure horse ride through the sea!
  The cattlemen of South Gippsland have grazed their stock continuously for over a century on the largest sand island in Victoria, which is overlooked by Wilson’s Promontory. “Snake Island” is part of the barrier island chain that provide a buffer to the wild seas of Bass Strait.
  Designated in 1986 as the “Corner Inlet Marine and Coastal Park” off Port Welshpool, the island is abundant in wildlife including the largest population of introduced ‘Hog Deer’ in Australia. “Parks Victoria” stipulate that there is no shooting permitted on the island but poachers are a threat. They monitor agistment with the “Snake Island Cattlemen’s Association”, as well as manage access to camping on the island, being a popular remote reserve for bushwalking and horse-riding activities.
  Apart from seasonal rides to muster and return new cattle to the island, the cattlemen also offer several horse trail rides a year, which attract people from far and wide with a sense of adventure, who want to share an authentic Aussie experience on horseback and don’t mind ‘roughing it’ in the bunkhouse. An eye-witness account may whet your appetite!
  On a warm summer morning in February, 25 riders mustered at the stockyard for our trek, clad in oilskin coats, waterproof over-pants and wearing gumboots. Head stockman and pilot, David Jones briefed us on our route and optimal tidal conditions for our crossing of the “Corner Inlet” to ‘terra firma’ on Snake. He was supported by 67-year old Wally Cayzer – a veteran of over 340 island crossings - mounted on his trusty 27-year old stock horse ‘Brandy’, with 250 rides to his credit. They were flanked by outrider Steve McKenzie, puffing on an aromatic grandpa pipe, to keep the sandflies at bay. Other experienced cattlemen were in the throng - including association secretary, Jenny Bland, Jeff ‘Swampy’ Thomas, Jo MacDonald, Fred Rouse and Mick Allman – all willing to conduct us ‘greenhorns’ into making a crossing - their revered influence on us could only be compared to Moses ‘parting the waves’.
  Henceforth, a non-descript group of’ ‘gumbooted-pilgrims’ set out… in a loose regiment with more ‘crosses’ than an Anzac cemetery…  including assorted stock horses, failed racehorses, Standardbreds, Quarter Horses and a preponderance of mixed ‘Clydies’. Only ponies were fitted with snorkels….? My courtesy mount, ‘Jake’, was a kindly palomino stock horse of 15.2hh for my camera mission and a sea veteran.
  As our group wound its way to the beach, some grazing was had on the tall spear grass, before the tide was declared “Out!’. With our lead pilot, Wally on ‘Brandy’, crossing the mudflats, we followed dutifully - like the rearguard on a wagon train dreading a massacre - as we were headed on a bearing straight out to sea!
  Luckily, our fears were unfounded, as this line proved to be the ‘higher marine ridge’, such as where Moses ‘walked’ and our eyes retracted back into their sockets, as the swish and sway of the waves started lapping at our gumboots. Pilot Wally was setting a rhythmic pace in front by swinging his stockwhip. “I like to use the ‘gentle persuader’ to keep ‘Brandy’ going as he is a very slow walker”, says Wally.
  As progress was now steady, eerie thoughts of stealthy ‘White Pointers’ lurking in the deep beside our route were fantasised but I was assured by ‘Swampy’ Thomas that the sharks were, “Well fed…”? Then a sudden, rear commotion, arose.
  It was not ‘Jaws’ but one rider had decided to swim! Mathew Murtagh had been baptised unexpectedly, as his horse ‘Rue’ had become giddy and fell over!
  We all thought Matthew must have been ‘the joker in the pack’, as he fell off once more, until Jenny Bland explained, “We like to keep the horses together, so they concentrate on each other, rather than on the motion of the water.” Apparently, horses can suffer a similar fate crossing swollen rivers but if they ingest salt water in the lungs, it can lead to fatal pneumonia.
  Clearly, the best option was for ‘Swampy’ to lend Matthew the head stockman’s mount, for David had gone over to the island earlier by boat with the supplies. After this exchange, one ‘wringing-wet rider’ had no more troubles. But I was able to record his ‘dunking’ on camera, despite fighting the effects of 100 horses’ hooves kicking up spray and skiffs of sea mist by using my specially ‘pro-lac-tified’ telescopic lens.
  We had been in the sea for over an hour when our poet-laureate pilot, Wally, changed direction towards the island and drew rein. He proceeded to regale us with a gripping stanza of a poem, before he would let us pass, as if he were the troll in the ‘Billy-goat’s Gruff’:
  Just off the coast of Gippsland, is an island of scrub and sand,
  Where bushmen choose bold horses, to reach the firmer land,
  With high tides, rough water and sometimes life at stake,
  For years stockmen have rallied for the muster over on Snake.
  We were enthralled but the chilling phrase, “life at stake”, stuck in our craw, as we were again moving on with our Wally. Then the seabed drew deeper and the water started lapping at the top of our ‘grumbies’. We had to pretend we were riding broncos with our heels raking on their shoulders. Our heartbeats raced into ‘code red’… but after a hundred metres… a nonchalant, ‘pleasure-mount posture’ resumed, as we waded onto wave-strewn sandy flats. We resisted the urge to stampede to the dunes and kiss the earth, preferring to be content with the delusional admission: “It was nothing, really!”
  Our buoyant group arrived at the huts content for a weekend of ‘happy trails’ on Snake. The meals were hearty and the sunsets over Wilson’s Promontory were a scenic delight, only matched by the warmth of campfire mateship, best expressed by Wally Cayzer:
  Around the fire when tea is done, there's yarning and time to think,
  For the whole day is ridden all over again, stimulated by a drop of red drink.
  There's talk of horses and dogs, and of the island's much wild life,
  The cattle they found so easy and the blighters that gave us strife.
  We've forgotten about our worries and the pressures of modern time,
  And there's no telephone or T.V., not even a clock to chime.
  And on the fire's dying embers, there's one last brew to make.
  And the old stories are retold again of Musters over on Snake.
  Special thanks to Jenny Bland, Jo MacDonald, Mick Allman and Fred Rouse of the Snake Island Cattlemen’s Association for making the ‘overseas’ trip possible and to Parks Victoria.
  Contact the Snake Island Cattlemen’s Association on Horse Trail Riding via Ms Jennifer Bland, phone 03 5183 2228. For Parks Victoria access information and camping permits visit www.parks.vic.gov.au, or call 13 1963. See more Snake Island Cattlemen’s Ride 2010 photos at www.horsephotographics.com.au
  
  
  (First published in Australian Performance Horse magazine Jun-Jul 2010).

  
  

  
  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  (First published in Australian Performance Horse magazine Jun-Jul 2010).

  
  

  
  

  Harry Redford Cattle Drive 2011

  
   
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   (First published in Australian Horseman magazine Sep-Oct 2011).
  
  
  
  
  Story and photos by James Vereker
  Harry Redford Cattle Drive
  Experience the real outback as a guest drover; enjoy camp oven cooking, campfire yarns and sleeping under the stars.
  The cattle drive commemorates the stupendous feat of cattle duffer, horse thief, trail-blazer and folk hero known as ‘Harry Redford’.
  World’s greatest cattle duffing escapade
  As a young stockman, working on Bowen Downs – one of the largest stations in central-west Queensland – Harry devised a plan in 1870 to ‘duff’ 1000 head of branded cattle near Aramac and drive them down to South Australia for sale.
  He setup yards in a remote gully with two other stockmen and gradually built his herd, before dividing them into three mobs and following the Thomson River south - to avoid ‘a suspiciously large dust cloud’. Then, on down the Barcoo River through the Channel Country and junction with the Cooper’s Creek - crossing not far from the infamous depot of Burke & Wills, to the Strzelecki Desert and Creek – an area lush with pasture due to flooding.
  Finally, at Artracoona Native Well, near Wallelderdine Station SA, Harry exchanged two branded cows and a white pedigree bull for supplies from the storekeeper. Replenished, they moved on to Mt Hopeless and at Blanchewater Station, east of Marree, sold the mob for £5000 ($250,000) – accepting a promissory note to be paid in six months’ time  – completing a historic journey of over three months and 1287 kilometres.
  Trail’s end and local justice
  The audacious trio rode on to Adelaide. Meanwhile, a search party of stockmen and blacktrackers were re-tracing Redford’s route. At Wallelderdine, the white bull was retrieved and dispatched to Brisbane by boat as evidence. Harry’s two accomplices were soon arrested and returned for trial in Roma but surprisingly, were found, “Not Guilty!” - by a jury sympathetic to their droving exploits!
  Redford remained at large for two years - marrying and fathering a daughter - before his arrest in Sydney, related to horse theft. On repatriation to Roma, Harry was also found, “Not Guilty!”- much to the ire of the judge and government of the day and in the midst of a community furore, over ‘a national folk hero’, they suspended the court for two years in 1872.
  Harry may be ‘the most notorious cattle-duffer in history’ but was by no means the only one operating to build herds of ‘cleanskins’ at the expense of large stations like Bowen Downs at the time. He did spend, however, 18 months in Brisbane gaol for horse stealing in 1881.
  Drover’s pioneering heritage
  While Harry was the first to overland a large mob of cattle south down the Strzelecki Creek only three years after the horse trek of John Costello to Kapunda SA in 1867, he also pioneered a route to the newly discovered ‘Barkly Tableland’ in the Northern Territory. With his release from prison in 1883, Harry drove 3000 head north from the Barcoo River to establish the well-known ‘Brunette Downs’, near Corella Creek and settled as station manager - before taking on ‘McArthur River Station’ in 1899.
  Redford’s legacy and notoriety
  At 59 years of age, Harry’s last ride ended when he set off from Brunette Downs to explore Central Australia but drowned trying to swim Corella Creek in flood. He is buried beside the creek in an unmarked grave but is recognised with a monument near the home station and by the unique annual experience of the “Harry Redford Cattle Drive” at Aramac, Qld.
  ‘Harry Redford’, used many aliases in his horse and cattle ‘dealings’ but was born Henry Arthur Readford at Mudgee, NSW in 1841 ‘to a respectable family’.
  New Harry Redford Cattle Drive
  To commemorate the ‘Year of the Outback’ in 2002, the local Aramac and Muttaburra communities formed an organising committee and conducted a cattle drive - open to all. The popular event has continued annually, apart from a dry 2003, till today - attracting a range of ‘guest drovers’ from rural and city backgrounds to youthful internationals - craving a unique Aussie adventure.
  The ‘Droving Crew’ provide an authentic outback experience for novice, intermediate and advanced riders - droving over 600 head of cattle from picturesque Lake Dunn, through the desert-like escarpment to the Aramac downs and across Bowen Downs station to Muttaburra – part of a historic stock route of over 200 kilometres used by the extraordinary ‘Harry Redford’.
  Importantly, proceeds from the drive administered by the Barcaldine Regional Council go towards improving community facilities.
  Droving Crew
  Boss Drover since 2007, David ‘Chook’ Day and his wife, Ann provide stock for the drive from their local ‘Kismet’ and ‘Myross’ properties supported by experienced ringers Bob Marshall (Boss Drover 2004-2006) and Jenny Murphy.
  The droving crew are keen to share their knowledge and outback experience on the drive. Guest drovers can have a leisurely time riding tail, trading anecdotes and taking photos, or ‘ring the herd’ like experienced drovers - to slow the mob to graze and ‘fatten on the hoof’, which is the aim of moving stock for market.
  A watering hole or trough varies the grazing routine, either morning or afternoon, while the vegetation and terrain of the landscape are ever-changing and as different as prickle bush and Mitchell grass!
  Guest Drovers
  Guest drovers can attend for a minimum or three days or a week to three weeks with a horse, tack and food included. Bring your own swag or equivalent, riding gear, a helmet, sunscreen and a torch for night manoeuvres to the ‘thunder box’ and a spirit of adventure. Transfers to and from the cattle drive camp to arrival and departure points are also complementary.
  Aramac is located north-west of Brisbane, near Barcaldine and Longreach - accessible by car, bus and rail links for a journey of about 13 hours. Daily flights of two and a half hours are available to Longreach.
  Join the Harry Redford Cattle Drive for 2012 from 6-26 May for the outback experience of a lifetime by booking online at www.harryredford.com.au or contact Barcaldine Regional Council (07) 4651 5603.
  Australian Horseman acknowledges the support of the Barcaldine Regional Council and Queensland Tourism in covering this event. See more cattle drive photos at www.horsephotographics.com.au  ©James Vereker 2011
  
  
   (First published in Australian Horseman magazine Sep-Oct 2011).